Get a personalized 12-month lawn treatment plan based on your grass type, location, and current issues — plus automated email reminders so you never miss a treatment.
Build My Free Plan →Free to join. No credit card required.
Three steps to a healthier lawn.
Enter your zip code, grass type, lawn size, and current issues. Takes 60 seconds.
We generate a 12-month schedule of treatments tailored to your grass variety and climate zone.
You'll receive an email alert the day before each treatment is due. No calendar needed.
What separates a great lawn from an average one.
Removing more than one-third of the blade in a single mow stresses the grass and exposes the soil to sun and weeds. Mow more often during peak growth instead of cutting low.
Shallow, frequent watering produces shallow roots. Water 1–1.5 inches per week in 2–3 deep sessions, early in the morning. This trains roots to grow down, making your lawn drought-resistant.
Cool-season grasses (Fescue, Bluegrass) should be fed primarily in fall — not summer. Warm-season grasses (Bermuda, Zoysia) need summer feeding. Wrong timing wastes money and can cause damage.
Aeration removes soil plugs, relieving compaction and creating pockets for air, water, and nutrients. Always overseed immediately after aeration — the open holes are where new seed thrives.
Pre-emergent herbicides prevent weed seeds from germinating, but they must go down before soil temps hit 55°F. Miss the window and it's useless. Most homeowners apply too late.
A high-potassium late-fall fertilization (the "winterizer") builds root reserves that power spring green-up. Most homeowners skip this. Professionals never do.
Join GolfLawns and get a personalized treatment plan built for your specific grass, location, and lawn conditions.
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